When it comes to the Great Ocean Road in winter, there are only three things that matter: put some warmth on, drive as the conditions dictate and have respect for how fast the coast can get rough. So pack your layers, make allowances for wind and rain and don’t be under the impression the Southern Ocean is going to be an innocuous setting.
I am Blake Morrow. After all these years of following the weather up and down coastlines I can tell you that what is cold on paper bears little resemblance to being out on an exposed lookout. The Great Ocean Road in winter has its charms: you will find the towns are more sedate, the skies moody, it is whale season and none of the summer circus. But you have to have the sense to prepare for it; a hoodie is not going to cut it.
The Case for Winter
There is a different side to the Great Ocean Road in the colder months. For more information, check out this about Great Ocean Road winter weather guide. The crowds are not there to form a queue at the coastal stops so it is a proper road trip. You might end up with damp socks but I would make that trade most days.
Those who want some drama from the landscape will find their season here. The Otway Ranges are a deep green, the Southern Ocean is putting on winter swells and places like Lorne, Apollo Bay or Warrnambool are easier to get around. It is well suited to a self-drive where one can have space and enjoy the wildlife without feeling packed in.
Who Should Go
Confident drivers, photographers, couples, a walker with no qualms about mud, and anyone after some winter whale watching will be well served. Not so much if you are a traveller who is put off by a cold wind chill or gets apprehensive on a wet, winding road because you are in Australia and expect better of the beach.
Reality Check
Folk tend to think it is “a bit cool” and they are wrong. Then the crosswinds and heavy rain set in and the temperature drops. Your daylight hours for sightseeing are curtailed and you will put in fewer kilometres than you had in mind. That is not failing, it is just good judgement.
What to Make of It
One does not have to be afraid of the coast in winter but you should read it. The pattern is usually for cold mornings, some wetness, gusts at the lookouts and now and then a patch of light so fine it makes the effort worthwhile.
You may be fine in town but head to a car park on a headland and the wind chill will make it feel rough as guts. That is where people are caught out.
In terms of conditions, plan for showers, some hard rain, roads that are slick under the trees and open country where the wind from the ocean is unrelenting. The swells are part of the show and part of the risk. If you are to do the Great Ocean Walk in winter, forget the brochure and count on slower progress and mud.
And don’t underestimate the short days. Start late in winter and you could be on some unknown bend in poor light with few food options and little room to manoeuvre if the weather sours. Get an early start in the morning, it is the sensible thing to do.
Cold Enough?
It depends on where you are and what day it is, but the number on your phone is not as telling as the felt temperature. Light clothing will not stand up to the wind near the beaches. Do not dress as though you are in Melbourne city.
Before you go, have a look at the Bureau Of Meteorology Victoria for any warnings or forecasts. Refresh that tab with your second coffee.
Packing
Waterproofing and layering are the order of the day for the Great Ocean Road, along with a dry change in the car. You are not on an expedition but sneakers and good intentions won’t do. My rule on a winter road trip is straightforward: have something ready in case your jacket or socks or camera (or patience) gets wet.
The Essentials: Gear and Clothing
- A proper waterproof hooded jacket, not one that is merely water-resistant.
- Base layers for the legs and torso to keep in the heat.
- Fleece or wool for a mid-layer of warmth.
- Boots with some heft and are waterproof, or at the very least an enclosed shoe with grip.
- Spare socks, a beanie and scarf.
- Polarised sunglasses to cut the glare from a low winter sun or after it has rained.
- Offline maps, a power bank and phone charger.
- Zip or dry bags to put your documents and electronics in.
- An umbrella if you are in town, but do not count on it at an exposed lookout.
- And the usual: drinking water, snacks, a torch and a basic first-aid kit.
Day To Day Attire
Thermal base layers, long pants, a good jumper and something waterproof on top will see you through any Great Ocean Road stop in winter. When out for a walk there is no contest between a pair of casual trainers and a solid waterproof boot. And for a dinner in town, have a dry change of clothes in the boot; it is better than sitting in a pub and steaming by the heater.
There is not much fashion to be found on a practical winter packing list for the Great Ocean Road, it is all function. A jacket of quality justifies itself. Dry socks too, though one does not often read poetry about them, one ought to.
Allow Some Margin When Driving
You can make a self-drive of the Great Ocean Road in winter, but it is an exercise in patience. The sort of tips one would give for winter driving here are common sense, which is the first thing to exit the vehicle when folk are intent on “fitting everything in”.
Then there are tourist stops, roadworks and closures, time taken for photos, and roads that are narrow and winding and take longer in the wet than the map would have you think. A short stretch can eat up more of your day than you put down.
Timing And What The Roads Are Like
After a heavy rain the condition of the road is another matter entirely, with standing water or debris and the odd slip to slow things down. Under the forest in the Otways it is darker and slicker, and where visibility is poor on the cliffside curves you want to be careful. Should you have only the one day, pick a central or western section and don’t set out to vanquish the entire route in the manner of a caffeine-fuelled hero.
Realistic timing is under-estimated by most. On paper a coastal run may seem straightforward but winter puts a brake on everything from your stopping distance to toilet breaks and whatever the weather throws at you. Put 25% or more into your plan as a buffer.
Preparation Of Your Vehicle
There is no difficulty in finding fuel in the bigger towns but do not let the tank get to the fumes on the premise that the next servo will be there to suit you. Top up in Lorne or Warrnambool or Apollo Bay when it is convenient. Check the demister, wipers, tyres and headlights before you head off. It is boring advice until the point where it is not.
For a hire car, make sure you have the roadside assistance information and enquire as to the state of the windscreen and whether the tyres are suited to the wet. In the low winter sun a streaky windscreen is a safety concern, not an aesthetic one.
Making The Most Of One Day
Your start point will dictate what you should make of a single day. Travellers from Melbourne tend to put their emphasis on the eastern half and then hurry over to the stacks in the west, ending up with more driving and less enjoyment. For a calmer approach to the dramatic coastline, make your base somewhere near Warrnambool or Apollo Bay.
| Torquay To Lorne | A short, scenic way in with easy access to town. | Lorne makes a fine base. Manageable in a day trip if you can put up with some wind and wet. |
| Lorne To Apollo Bay | Where the coast and forest come together in classic bends. | Apollo Bay. Good for those who like to drive without rush, even if the rain makes it so. |
| Apollo Bay To Port Campbell | The wild ocean and rock formations put on a show. | This is the most dramatic part of the road in winter, so factor in time for the lookouts. Base in Port Campbell or Warrnambool. |
| Port Campbell To Warrnambool | Warrnambool. Whale season and a quieter end to the day. | Fewer people around and plenty of wildlife. |
Coastal Safety
Do not treat the Southern Ocean lightly in winter. The swells and rogue waves are enough to put the fear in you, particularly if you are inclined to put yourself in harm’s way on a wet rock platform for a picture because it seems alright. Blake Morrow has seen his share of such coastal posturing and the pattern is familiar: composure one moment, a foolish decision the next.
On the Great Ocean Road in winter you need to respect the coastline. Keep the kids in hand, stay put behind the barriers and heed the warning signs as you would an instruction.
One does not get the cinematic forewarning with a rogue wave. And after a rain, the cliff edges are less stable and you will find wet rocks and steps to be more of a hazard. There is risk in familiar viewing spots too when the wind has you off balance as you are trying to set up your phone camera.
On the beach it is best to stay clear of the water line unless you know access is safe and the sea is calm. Do not have your back to the ocean; it may seem like an overstatement but there is good reason for such coastal safety.
Winter on the Great Ocean Walk
An experienced walker who is unfazed by mud and wants some solitude will find the winter conditions here to be something special, though not always suited to a novice. Expect to put in slower times on the tracks and be aware that creek crossings can be different after rain. Make of Walk91 or Outcamp what you will as planning aids, but if you are using their services for sections of the walk, you should form your own opinion of conditions come the day.
The Best of Winter
There is no glossy beach-holiday pretension in winter, only wildlife, atmosphere and space to breathe, which is where the season makes its case. For those inclined to photograph sea cliffs under a moody sky or put in a long lunch, winter does much of the work. Should one want to make a daily swim of it, this is the wrong trip.
Whales and Wildlife
Heading to the western end of the Great Ocean Road around Warrnambool in winter is hard to beat for whale watching. The season attracts the kind of traveller looking for more than a scenic stop. Be patient at the lookouts and you will be rewarded; do not expect a sighting to materialise to a theme park schedule. Have your binoculars to hand.
Quiet Stops and Photography
With fewer people about at the major lookouts and the rough water and cloud texture, winter is fine for photography. A microfibre cloth for the lens is a small thing that will spare you from cursing, and polarised sunglasses take the edge off the glare in between showers. Even the cafés in the smaller towns are of more use than mere convenience.
Overnight stops require a bit of thought
A sensible plan for the Great Ocean Road in winter is not so much about checking off every landmark as it is to align your overnight with the weather and daylight. You will be better served by well-chosen accommodation and shorter drives. The coastline is the showpiece of the trip but it is practical to know where to regroup if things turn, and towns are there for fuel, food and shelter.
Some towns to rely on
Lorne is an easy base from Melbourne with all the food and accommodation you need. For a mid-route stop Apollo Bay is very useful to refuel, have a hot meal and reorganise before you make your way into or out of the Otway Ranges. In the west Warrnambool is handy for winter services and getting in on the whales, and to put an end to a long day without having to carry on.
Budget-wise in winter it depends on how you travel but allow in the region of AUD 25-40 for a no frills breakfast at a café, say 20-35 for lunch and from 140 a night and up for a modest room in the more popular towns, more so in school holidays or at weekends. As for operators like ANT Touring, tour prices are all over the place depending on the departure point and inclusions, so see what is covered before you put money down.
Getting there
The car is still the way to go from Melbourne in winter for the flexibility it affords with the length of your stops and any change in conditions. While public transport is available in some areas it is hardly convenient for making weather-based adjustments or to get to the lookouts. You will find parking no trouble at all in the towns and at the more popular attractions for the most part, but do not be surprised if a wet day turns some of the less formal pull-ins into an unpleasant or muddy affair.
For those who have come to this page wanting the lowdown on Great Ocean Road winter weather, here is what it boils down to: put in fewer miles than you had in mind, linger a bit longer at your stops and make sure you are dressed for the lookout and not just the warmth of the car.
Prepare For The Unexpected
A good winter traveller does not let a tight plan get in the way when small things go awry. A detour due to a road closure, a spell of hard rain or even putting in a café stop you had to miss will not spoil your outing. Then there is the type of traveller who has nothing but an angry review to show for it because the weather was being weather. One has a backup layer and some snacks, the other does not.
Emergency Basics
- Before you set off and while you are on the road, see what the forecasts and warnings have to say about rainfall.
- Make an offline map download and see your phone is fully charged.
- On long solo stretches of the route put someone in the picture as to where you are going.
- Have water and unpretentious food to hand, and a warm spare layer for each person.
- Tired or cold? Do not see it out to dusk in a rush.
Useful Local Support
Weather alerts should be your first port of call for conditions. When it comes to planning in general, local visitor information like Visit Great Ocean Road can be of service for any change of route. But ask an accommodation host and they will tell you which parts are not worth the bother that day and which are; you will find their opinion of more value than a trip app.
Common Questions Answered
Travellers have a few questions before a winter run on the coast and we can not blame them. Winter calls for some forethought and a direct answer is preferable to any amount of fussing about.
How Many Days To Drive The Great Ocean Road?
Most would put two or three days on it in winter. You could do it in one but with the rain and the hours of daylight being short, plus the photo opportunities, it is apt to be a rush job.
Is It Cold On The Great Ocean Road?
The forecast might put a number on it that seems alright, but the temperature you feel on the coast is another matter. With wind chill from the Southern Ocean the lookouts can be quite biting.
When Is The Time To Be There?
You will not find a perfect answer. Warmer months are for the beach and the extra daylight. But if you want to put space and atmosphere ahead of a swim, winter is a fine choice for its moody scenery and whales, to say nothing of the lack of crowds.
Which Direction To Go?
From Melbourne many opt to head west so the ocean is to the passenger’s side and the main stops present themselves. In winter your overnight arrangements and the weather will dictate the better course, as will whether you intend to end up in Warrnambool or make a loop.
Can I Do The Great Ocean Walk In Winter?
In some respects yes. But not for the casual stroller after easy terrain; the mud and the wet timber steps and the wind will slow you down. Unless you have the right gear and are prepared it is not for the beginner.
The Takeaway
It is well worth making the effort on the Great Ocean Road in winter, provided you are ready for the actual conditions and not what you see in a postcard. Be respectful of the coastline, check the forecast and leave some room in your schedule for warm, waterproof clothing.
Blake Morrow would be the first to say a winter road trip here is among the best in Australia, but you have to work with the season, not against it. Get an early start and be sensible behind the wheel, boil the billy if you have the chance and let the coast have its way.
